CHINATOWN EXPRESS,

EGGPLANT & SALT-FISH CASSEROLE IN A GARLIC SAUCE (L) WITH FRESH PORK DUMPLINGS (R)

CHINATOWN EXPRESS A TASTE OF OLD WORLD EXCELLENCE AT 746 6^TH STREET N.W. WASHINGTON, D.C.

Native Washingtonians know there is only one place in the city to get authentic Chinese cuisine and it is called “China Express” located at 746 6^th Street N.W.  It’s unique façade trimmed in green is filled with roast duckling, cuttlefish, roast pork chops and pork bellies hanging in the large storefront windows.  There used to be similar restaurant just around the corner on 7^th Street which sadly is now Walgreens.  A true “Foodie” would spy this gem from the otherwise banal streetscape of pedestrian retail and restaurant facades in an instant and if they were compelled to step inside would discover an extensive menu that would require them to harness their appetite.  Forget what you thought Chinese food was if it was based on the predictable staples of the All American Chinese American Carryout because China Express’ features a dizzying offering of complex and exotic Chinese and other Asian dishes that have been perfected over a period of over 5,000 years.  You will need some time to take in the full menu, 

FRESHLY MADE FILLING FOR SHRIMP DUMPLINGS

I suggest you order the freshly crafted pork, chicken or shrimp dumplings steamed or fried while you decide.  The dumplings come with a clean, soy-based dipping sauce with fresh spring onions

THE CHEF MANUFACTURES HAND-CRAFTED DUMPLINGS IN THE STOREFRONT WINDOW

One of the most interesting offerings of Chinatown Express is its vast list of rich casseroles, some vegetarian and others composed of a rich assortment of meats, vegetables, herbs and spices many of which are uncommon to North America being imported delicacies from the orient.  This evening I ordered the Salt-Fish and Eggplant Casserole.  The dish is prepared with fresh succulent slivers of tender baby eggplant with fried salt fish or “Bacalau” mixed together in a dense, savory roasted garlic sauce with onions and the entire casserole is wrapped in fresh lettuce leaves before baking.  The bright purple eggplant melts in your mouth and the lettuce becomes gelatinous its juices mixing with the salt-fish.  The complex seasonings of the garlic sauce create an uncommon experience of flavor, texture and color.   

BABY EGGPLANT AND SALT FISH CASSEROLE SERVED PIPING HOT

Try the oyster and roast pork casserole, it is my favorite.  Fresh and juicy, fried oysters are combined with tender chunks of roast pork belly.  I love the caramelized fat of the pork belly; its juices mixed with those of the gelatinous lettuce, oysters and the light-clear garlic sauce, which almost certainly contains duck drippings, is a triumph not to be missed.  In order to keep up with the menu I have already vowed to try a different casserole every time I visit and you should join me!

CRISPY ROAST DUCKLING HANGING IN THE STOREFRONT WINDOW

I could not leave you without mentioning the excellent crispy duckling for which Chinatown Express is famous.  When I come into the door I smile at the cashier and point to the duck that catches my eye.  I love the crisp, salty, oily skin infused with the flavor of soy and anise.  I love the rich dark meat and have to keep myself from consuming the entire duck after I get it home.  

Today they had one last cuttlefish but it was purchased just after I took this photograph, (see below), so I will tell you about it next time.  When you go to Chinatown Express after greeting staff courteously just point to the duckling and say, “Chop Chop”, watch the chef pull the duck down and chop it into bite sized pieces on the chopping block made from a tree trunk.   

THE FOOD IS CHOPPED ON A SECTION OF A TREE TRUNK. SEE THE RED CUTTLEFISH IN THE LOWER RIGHT.

I like it best when they do not place it in the microwave, tell them not to warm it because this duck is perfect at room temperature.  If you need it warmed I suggest you place it in the oven for less than 10 minutes at a moderate temperature so you do not dry it out.  Everything at Chinatown Express is prepared with love and skillfulness.  Next time I am there I hope to see you trying something new and wonderful from their menu.  Visit their website and view their menu at this link:  http://www.chinatownexpressdc.com/Home.html 

   

FIN

BIGDADDY BLUES

PUDDIN'

A LITTLE  “PUDDIN” OF YOUR OWN…

For those of you who can easily become smitten with the mere thought of a talented chef’s cuisine you’d be willing to follow them around the DMV, “Puddin’ just might be the ultimate culinary temptation to get you on the hunt.  Puddin' is a mobile food truck specializing in Louisiana cuisine that can be located on Facebook and Twitter.  

Now I've parleyed with many  Louisianan’s and New Orleanian’s who absolutely refuse to eat anything promoted as Louisianan cuisine outside of that State’s borders and all of them have given in to the temptation of that famous black and pink truck affectionately known by Washington, D.C. foodies as “Puddin’s Divine Comfort Food”. 

THE CREATOR AND CHEF MAGNIFIQUE OF PUDDIN'

Ever since I first marveled at the sinfully luscious, tender and decadently oversized shrimp in Puddin’s legendary shrimp and grits I knew the romance would never end.  The grits are velvety and luxuriously buttery with the slightest hint of aromatic cheese, it is the food of the gods.   Odly enough though the flavorful features of Puddin' may be fit for the gods the rustic, New Orleans cuisine it celebrates is the simple food of common folk, which in haute cuisine would be called, "Peasant Style" but in American cuisine is referred to as "Comfort Food".

When my taste buds received the first blessings of flavor from the Oyster Po Boy I ordered today I realized that sinfully delicious food was in fact a very good thing.  Now the traditional hard baguette had been replaced with a soft roll and the oysters were covered with a spicy tomato based version of remoulade sauce and topped with shredded cabbage that had been ever so lightly pickled; a much milder version of the relish typically served with Salvadorian papusas’.  These are the areas in which a talented chef can deviate from a traditional dish to infuse well-crafted and well-suited variations on a theme.  One of the joys of food trucks is that they are so tactile and intimate because you can watch your food being prepared only a few feet from the kitchen.  It is the next best thing to being able to physically interact with your food. I watched the chef fry the delicate oysters and ate my glorious Po Boy in the company of a New Orleanian who was also enjoying her shrimp Po Boy.  I suggest that you first try the Po Boy with just the oysters, lettuce, tomato and perhaps onion with the spicy sauce on the side so that you get the full infusion of juicy-fried, oyster flavor. 

MENU OF THE DAY

Like most regional cuisines the style of American Creole food varies widely throughout the region and so do the interpretive styles of the creole dishes offered by local restaurants, caterers and chefs.  What is remarkable is that a food truck such as Puddin’ has captured the soul of Louisiana cuisine in such a small space when entire restaurants have missed the mark.  I was fortunate enough to meet the creator of Puddin’ before she became a culinary icon busied with satisfying her hungry customers.  Then we had plenty of time to talk about her philosophy of food and her origins as a chef.  You can follow Puddin’ on Facebook at: https://www.facebook.com/toyin.alli.31?fref=ts&ref=br_tf  but do step out after drooling at the fabulous food pictures and get some Puddin’ of your own!

FIN

Written by BIGDADDY BLUES

PUDDIN'S SIGNATURE FOOD TRUCK

A GALLERY OF IMAGES

TKO BURGER 2350 WASHINGTON PLACE N.E. WASHINGTON, D.C.

TKO BURGER, CAROLINA KITCHEN’S LATEST ENTRÉE!

My first visit to TKO BURGER revealed what is easily one of the best hand-crafted burgers in Washington, D.C and one of its best kept secrets. TKO BURGER is a smaller, accessory restaurant connected to Carolina Kitchen’s new Rhode Island Avenue location by a small interior doorway making it possible to grab a burger and hit the well-stocked bar without having to go outside.  TKO BURGER is located at 2350 Washington Place, N.E. Washington D.C. and their contact number is 202-733-1216.

TKO BURGER features a handsomely appointed handmade patty crafted from commercially ground beef.  I had hoped the meat would be freshly ground on the premises but while I ordered I watched the cook cut and weigh the ground beef from a huge extruded length of meat.  I was not dismayed nor was I disappointed at the outcome which far exceeded my expectations being a burger purist and admittedly a huge burger snob.  We burger purists do not allow sauces and condiments to take away from the main production which we understand to be beef!  Sauces also tend to make a burger soggy and condiments such as lettuce, tomato, etc., tend to make it mushy and slippery; nobody likes an unstable burger construction.  A burger, like a hot dog-boy, hero, cheesesteak or other American sandwich is intended to be eaten with the hands and not with a fork, knife and spoon.  Now this burger was cooked to a perfect medium rare, I prefer rare when the meat is freshly ground and the cheddar cheese had a rich, aged flavor.  There is only one other topping I prefer on a burger and that is onion and maybe pickles.  The TKO BURGER comes with a signature TKO Sauce which I wisely declined but found a glossy dollop had been placed on my plate anyway.  Like most of Carolina Kitchens sauces it was far too sweet for a burger.  I did speak with the chef and suggested a savory sauce alternative perhaps with a mixture of mayonnaise, brown mustard, horseradish, lemon juice, black pepper and sage.  This food critic dislikes any sweetness whatsoever in a meat or other main entrée opining that it would be better served as dessert.  So I pushed the heavy, sweet concoction to the side after dipping an onion ring in it pinning its sugary flavor out of my reach.  The burger was stacked high, juicy and replete with the honest flavor of the grill. 

The onion rings were excellent, the cornbread batter was crunchy and savory and the onions were sweet tender white onions that tasted almost like Vidalia’s.  I might have preferred that TKO sauce for my onion rings but only if another savory sauce accompanied it. 

TKO BURGER is a must go for true burger lovers who enjoy that homemade flavor lost in most restaurants that serve them.  The interior design theme is nostalgic of American boxing legends such as Muhammad Ali AKA Cassius Clay and Joe Louis, it is chock full of boxing memorabilia.  There is a large flat screen at the front for sports lovers and more intimate table and booth seating further inside or you can get it to go.  Don’t sleep on TKO burger, the fresh, healthy flavor really will knock you out!

FIN

Written By: BIGDADDY BLUES